Italian Recipes
Italian Recipes
Italain Cooking with Cooking Video
Italian cuisine
Although Italian cuisine does have defining features that are found throughout the country, it is composed of highly varied regional cuisines. The cuisines reflect the cultural variety of its regions and its diverse history with culinary influences from numerous civilizations. The cuisine is highly seasonal and the dishes of each region reflect this diversity of the seasons. Some of the ingredients that have become key to Italian cuisine were only introduced after the discovery of the New World, such items include ingredients as tomatoes, maize (used for cornmeal), bell peppers, and potatoes. Prior to the discovery of the New World though, items such as bread, pasta, wine, olive oil and cheese were already important components. Coffee and more specifically espresso culture have become highly important to the cultural cuisine of Italy.
National cuisine
Italian cuisine has evolved extensively over the centuries. Although the country known as Italy today had not officially formed until the 19th century, the cuisine can claim roots going back as far as 4th century BC. Through various influences throughout the centuries, including neighboring regions, conquerors, high-profile chefs, political upheavals as well as discovering the New World, a concrete cuisine has formed to what is known today as one of the premiere cuisines in the world.
History
Pre - Middle Age
The first known food writer has been traced back to the 4th century BCE. This writer was a Greek Sicilian named Archestratus, who lived in Syracuse. His writing was a poem that spoke of using “top quality and seasonal” ingredients of the freshest nature. He also stated that the flavors of the dishes should not be masked by spices, herbs, or other seasonings with an importance put upon this style of preparation for fish. This style of cuisine seemed to be forgotten during the 1st century AD when De Re Coquinarja presumed to be written by Gavius Apicius was published with 470 recipes included many with heavy usage of spices, herbs which would hide much of the natural flavor of the dish they were used in, much of this would have been considered what would be eaten in the patrician household. This does not suggest that the Romans of the time did not appreciate high quality ingredients. The Romans employed the best Greek bakers to produce their breads, imported pecorini from Sicily as the Sicilians were known for producing the best cheese makers. The Romans were also known as being excellent rearer of pigs for butchering and gardening of artichokes and leeks.
Middle Ages
The Saracens invaded Sicily during the 9th century as most of what is known today as northern Europe was being attacked by barbarians. As Sicily has already attained much of the culinary traditions from Rome and Athens, the highly civilized culture combined with the Sicilian to bring what many consider the first real Italian cuisine in Sicily. The Arabs introduced spinach, almonds and rice and some say spaghetti as it made its possible first appearance during the 12th century AD when the Norman king made a survey of Sicily and noted that he saw people making long strings made from flour and water called atriya, which eventually became trii which is another term used for spaghetti in southern Italy. Normans also introduced casseroling, salt cod (baccalà) and stockfish which remain extremely popular today. [2]
The northern regions of future Italy started to show a mix of Germanic and Roman culture while the southern portion continued to reflect the influences of Arabic culture as they controlled much of the Mediterranean trade routes, as such much of the Mediterranean cuisine had been spread by the Arabic trade.[3] The oldest Italian book on cuisine is Liber de coquina written in Naples during the 13th century. Dishes included “Roman-style” cabbage (ad usum romanorum), ad usum campanie which was “small leaves” prepared in the “Campanian manner”, a bean dish reflecting the Marca di Trevisio, a torta, compositum londardicum which are extemly similar to dishes prepared today in Italy. In two other books from the 14th century recipes are found for Roman pastello, Lavagna pie, use of salt from Sardinia or Chioggia again reflecting the importance of the regions of Italy and the foundations of integral dishes.
During the 15th century Maestro Martino was chef to the Patriarch of Aquileia at the Vatican. His manuscript Libro de Arte Coquinaria began to illustrate a cuisine with a more refined and elegant design. In his book contains a recipe for Maccaroni Siciliani which was made by wrapping dough around a thin iron rod and dried in the sun. The macaroni was to be cooked in capon stock flavored with saffron, illustrating the Arab influence. Of particularly note is Chef Martino’s shedding the use of excessive spices in favor of fresh herbs.[5] Martino’s cuisine created a methodology that respected proper selection and modes of preparation. The Roman recipes mentioned in the text includes recipes for coppiette’ and cabbage dishes. His Florentine dishes included eggs with a Bolognese torta, Sienese torta and for Genoese recipes such as piperata, macaroni, squash, mushrooms, and spinach pie with onions.
Martino’s manuscript was included in a book printed during 1475 in Venice written by Bartolomeo Platina entitled De Honesta Voluntate et Valetudine (On Honest Pleasure and Good Health). Platina puts Martino’s “Libro” in cultural context reflexing different regions of Italy including the Po Valley, Liguria, Campania, Piceno, Apulia, and Sicily. He speaks of ingredients coming from various regions perch from Lake Maggiore, sardines from Lake Garda, grayling from Adda, hens from Padua, olives from Bologna and Piceno, turbot from Ravenna, rudd from Lake Trasimeno, carrots from Viterbo, bass from Tiber, roviglioni and shad from Lake Albano, snails from Rieti, figs from Tuscolo, grapes from Narni, oil from Cassino, oranges from Naples and moray from Campania. Grains from Lombardy and Campania are also mentioned as is honey from Sicily and Taranto. The wines he mentions are from the Ligurian coast, Grecco from Tuscany and San Severino and Trebbiano from Tuscany and Piceno.
16th century - 17th century
The royal courts of Florence, Rome, Venice and Ferrara were integral to the creation of the fine cooking in Italy. The court of Estes in Ferrara was a central figure to the creation of this high-cuisine. Christoforo Messisbugo steward to Ippolito d’Este published Banchetti Composizioni di Vivande in 1549. In this work Messisbugo details banquets in the first-half of the book, in the second-half of the book contains a multitude of recipes for items such as pies and tarts (containing 124 recipes with various fillings). The work does emphasize the use of Eastern spices and sugar which was at this time otherwise beginning to diminish.[8]
In 1570 Opera was written by Bartolomeo Scappi personal chef to Pope Pius V. This was a five-volume work that to that date encompassed the most comprehensive example of Italian cooking. The work contained over 1,000 recipes, with information on banquets including displays and menus as-well-ass illustrations of kitchen and table utensils. The difference between most books written for the royal courts and this volume is its shedding of game and other meats and includes instead domestic animals and courtyard birds which was more inline with the “modest household”. Recipes are also included how to clean and use lesser cuts of meats including tongue, head, and shoulder. The third book contains recipes for fish, or Lent cookery. Preparations for fish are simple including poaching, broiling, grilled, or fried after being marinated. Particular attention is given to seasons in which fish should be caught and in which location. The final volume includes pies, tarts, fritters and includes a recipe for a Neapolitan pizza. This version of the Neapolitan pizza is not the savory version known today, it was instead a sweet version as tomatoes had not been introduced to Italy as-of-yet. There were recipes for corn and turkey however, which were items from the New World.[9]
During the first decade of the 17th century chef Giangiacomo Castelvetro published Brieve Racconto di Tutte le Radici di Tutte l’Herbe et di Tutti i Frutti (A Brief Account of all Vegetables, Herbs and Fruit) which was translated into English by Gillian Riley. Originally from Modena, Castelvetro moved to England because of his Protestant background. The book included an in-depth listing of Italian vegetables and fruits as well as their preparation. The chef’s preparation of vegetables featured them at times as a central part of the meal, not just accompaniments. The favored preparation (still favored in Italy today) was to simmer vegetables in salted water and serve them warm or cold with olive oil, salt, fresh ground pepper, lemon juice and verjus or orange juice. Another preparation includes roasting vegetables wrapped in damp paper over charcoal or embers with a drizzle of olive oil, again a technique still popular today in Italy. Castelvetro’s book is separated into seasons with mentions of hop shoots in the spring and truffles in the winter detailing the truffle scavenge with the use of pigs. New World items were not mentioned in this book as they did not become popular until the 18th century.
In 1662 Bartolomeo Stefani chef to Gonzagas published L’Arte di Ben Cucinare. He was the last chef to publish a book of Italian high-cuisine, but the first to offer a full section on vitto ordinario (ordinary food). The book contained a section on a banquet given by Gonzagas for Queen Christina of Sweden with details for preparation prior to the banquet, preparation of the food and table settings including each guest having a setting of a knife, fork, spoon, glass, a plate instead of bowls often used up to this point and a napkin. Other books were published at this time to illustrate how scalco (server) should manage themselves while serving their guests. An important book to take up this topic was Galatheo by Giovanni della Casa. The book instructed waiters to not scratch their heads or other parts of themselves, not to spit, cough or sneeze while serving diners. The book also instructed diners to not use their fingers while eating as well as not wipe their sweat with their napkin.
Regional cuisine
Each area has its own proud specialties, primarily at regional level, but also even at provincial level. These regional variances can come from the influence of a bordering country (such as France or Germany), vicinity to the ocean or mountains as well as economic progress. Italian cuisine is not only highly regional, it is very seasonal. The high priority placed on the use of fresh, seasonal produce distinguishes the cuisine of Italy.
Friuli-Venezia Giulia
This region shares many traditions with the bordering former Yugoslavia. The famous San Daniele del Friuli hams come from this region. Carnia in the northern region is known for its bacon and Montasio cheese. Collico, Grave de Friuli, and Colli Orientali are regional wine favorites. The dishes of the region take on the influence of Austrian, Hungarian, Slovenian, and Croatian influence. Beer halls of the region feature Viennese sausage, goulash and Bohemian hare. Many of the desserts of the region are flour based including strudel. Polenta is a staple of Venezia Giulia where it finds its way into many variations including stirred dishes, baked dishes and can be seen served with sausage, cheese, fish, or meat. Dishes made with pork are often seen in Venezia Giulia and can often be spicy and are often prepared over the open hearth called the fogolar.
Veneto
Risotto is a dish where the added ingredients differ by according to location, with fish and seafood being added closer to the coast and pumpkin, asparagus, radicchio and frogs’ legs appearing further away from the Adriatic. Beans and other legumes are seen in these areas with the dish pasta e fagioli being a unique combination of beans and pasta. Veneto features heavier dishes using exotic spices and sauces. Ingredients like stockfish or simple marinated anchovies are found here as well. Less fish is eaten in Veneto and more meat and sausages are preferred such as the famous sopressata and garlic salami. High quality vegetables are prized here with red radicchio from Treviso being prized as well as asparagus from Bassano del Grappa.
Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol
Prior to the Council of Trent in 1550 this region was known for simplicity in cuisine. When the prelates of the Church came they brought the art of fine cooking to the region. Fresh water fish is a specialty of this region. In later years the cuisine of the Republic of Venice and the Habsburg Empire were adopted. In the Alto Adige Alpine traditions are embraced which includes Slav, Austrian, and Hungarian cuisines. Goulash can again be found here as a regular Sunday dish. Potatoes, dumplings and homemade sauerkraut called crauti. Lard is a popular ingredient in this region. the national pasta, tomatoes and olive oil can be found popularized in this region as well.[14]
Lombardy
Rice is a popular ingredient in this region often found in soups as well as risotto. Cheese is a popular course with robiola and grana padano being particularly important. Butter is a popular ingredient over oil and cream in generous amounts are often seen. Single pot dishes are popular here with the working class which take less labor to create. In the areas of Bergamo, Brescia, and Valtellina polenta is popular. In Mantua the a village festival features tortelli di zucca (ravioli with pumpkin filling) accompanied by melted butter and followed by turkey stuffed with chicken or other stewed meats.
Val D’Aosta
Bread thickened soups of the hearty variety are customary in this region as well as cheese fondues called fonduta influenced by the Alpine region. Polenta is another popular staple along with rye bread, smoked bacon, and game meats found in the mountain and forest regions. Butter and cream are also important ingredients in the creation of stewed, roasted and braised dishes.
Piedmont
Piemonte is a region where seasonal gathering of nuts, fungi, cardoons as well as seasonal hunting (especially wild game) and fishing takes place. Truffles, garlic, seasonal vegetables, cheese and rice are all important staples to the region’s diet. Wines such as Barolo, Barbaresco, Nebbiolo, and Barbera stand out in this area as well as fine sparkling wines. Gorgonzola and Castelmagno are prized cheeses of the region. Prosciutto Baciato is the regions style of prosciutto made from pork fillet or other lean portion of pork marinated in white wine, coated with a salami paste and stuffed into a casing to age for six months.
Liguria
Fiercely local in the use of their ingredients, the dishes found in this region will all feature the utmost freshness found in the local ingredients harvested by local people. Fresh herbs and vegetables as well as seafood find their way into the cuisine. Savory pies and cakes are popular in the region. Onions and olive oil are found often in the cuisine which were helpful in their addition to vitamin C for the sailors who may have been lacking in the vitamin on long journeys. The Lingurians have their own style of pizza which is similar to focaccia topped with onions and anchovies. Ligurian pastas include Corzetti from the Polcevera valley, Pansoti (a triangular shapped ravioli filled with vegetables), Piccagge (pasta ribbons made with a small amount of egg and commonly served with artichoke sauce or pesto), Trenette (made from wholewheat flour cut into long strips and served with pesto, boiled beans and potatoes), and Trofie (a Ligurian gnocchi made from wholegrain flour or white wheat flour, made into a spiral shape and cooked with beans and potatoes and often tossed in pesto.
Emilia-Romagna
Cured hams and mortadella are popular charcuterie items of the region. Parmesan cheese proliferates in the cuisine and different meats including game meats can be found here. Pasta is quite popular in the region. The region of Parma offers exquisite ham and culatello. Bologna offers its top quality mortadella as well as lasagna and tortellini but the home of tortellini is Piacenza. Aceto balsamico tradizionale or balsamic vinegar is produced by legal traditions by old-style producers.
Tuscany
Simplicity is popular in the cuisine in Tuscany. Legumes, bread, cheese, crisp vegetables, mushrooms and fresh seasonal fruit are popular food items. Olive oil is an integral ingredient in Tuscany made from the Moraiolo, Leccino, Frantoio, and Pendolino olives. White truffles from San Miniato are a distinct specialty that appear in October and November. Beef of the highest quality come from the Chiana Valley, specifically a breed known as Maremma. Pork is another integral protein to the Tuscan cuisine.
Umbria
Most of the dishes of this region are prepared with the simple techniques of boiling and roasting with the addition of local olive oil for flavor along with local herbs. Vegetable dishes are more popular in the spring and summer while they are in season, while the fall and winter introduces meats from the hunting season and black truffles from Norcia. Sausage making is very popular in this region produced by the Norcineria. lenticchie di Castellucco are prized lentils found in Castelluccio and are highly prized throughout Italy. The regions of Spoleto and Monteleone are known for their production of high-quality spelt. Freshwater fish are also found in the cuisine including lasca, trout, freshwater perch, grayling, eel, barbel, whitefish, and tench.
Marche
On the coast of Marche, fresh fish and seafood proliferate. In the inland regions wild and domestic pigs are prized in the cuisine often making their way into sausages, hams and other skilled delicacies. Here instead the hams are not thinly sliced, but cut into bite-sized chunks when served. Suckling pigs, chicken and fish are often seen stuffed in this region before being roasted or placed on the spit.
Lazio
Hearty pasta dishes find their way into the cuisine of this region. The region prides itself on using the lesser known cuts of pork and beef in its dishes in the past and can still be seen today. Jewish influence can also be seen in the cuisine. Local vegetables, especially globe artichokes, are popular in the Roman cuisine. Rome being Italy’s capital, bars, restaurants and cafés proliferate.
Abruzzo and Molise
Chillies (peperoncini) are seen in the cuisine of Abruzzo where they are called diavolini (little devils) for the spice they give to their dishes. Centerba is a strong, spicy herbal liqueur drunk by the local people here. Pasta, meat, and vegetables are central to the cuisine of these regions. Lamb can be seen here often and a special tool used to cut their pasta is used called a chitarra (literally ‘guitar’) which is a fine stringed tool that the dough is pressed through, the pasta makes a perfect marriage with the lamb of the region. Saffron is a favorite spice of the region, grown in the town of L’Aquila, although in recent years its popularity has slightly waned but it can still be seen in some dishes which are central to Italian cuisine.
Campania
High-quality produce of the region includes tomatoes, peppers, spring onions, potatoes, artichokes, fennel, lemons and oranges which all take on the unique flavor of the volcanic soil of the region. The Gulf of Naples offers fresh fish and seafood. Duram wheat is used in the production of the region’s pastas. The mozzarella is highly prized here as it is of the highest quality coming from buffalo milk. The traditional pizzas of the region are extremely well known and take advantage of the fresh vegetables and mozzarella found there.
Apulia
The northern portion of this region uses copious amounts of garlic and onion in its dishes. The region is known for its dried pasta made from durum wheat flour. Fresh vegetables come in the way of tomatoes, zucchini, broccoli, bell peppers, potatoes, spinach, eggplants, cauliflower, fennel, Belgian endive, as well as legumes such as chickpeas, lentils and beans. Apulia is the largest producer of olive oil in Italy. The vicinity to the sea brings a proliferation of fish and seafood to the table, especially oysters, and mussels. Goat and lamb are seen on the table here occasionally as well.
Basilicata
Pork is an integral part of the region’s cuisine, often made into sausages or roasted on a spit by home cooks. Mutton and lamb are also popular meats in the region. Pasta is another common ingredient to the cuisine here, made from duram wheat and water. The accompanying sauces for the pasta are generally of the meat or vegetable based variety. Spicy peperoncini are also popular in Bascilicata. The bitter digestif Amaro Lucano is from this region, but is actually popular all over Italy.
Calabria
The cuisine of this region has been highly affected by the constant conquerors and visitors of the region’s past. The Arabs introduced oranges, lemons, raisins, artichokes and aubergines. Cistercian monks introduced agricultural practices to the region along with their dairy skills. French rule through the House of Anjou, and later Napoleon, along with Spanish influence, affected the language and culinary skills as seen in the naming conventions of items such as cake (gatò) coming from the French term gateau. In time the region has taken on its own characteristics and distinct regional cuisine based on these influences. Seafood proliferates in the cuisine due to its orientation to the coast line with swordfish being of note along with shrimp, lobster, sea urchin, squid and others. Melons also grow well in this region with watermelon, charleston gray, crimson sweet, cantelope, tendrale verde, piel de sapo and invernale giallo being popularly served in a chilled Macedonia di frutta (fruit salad) or wrapped in Parma ham.
Sicily
Another region filled with culinary influences because of its location. The influence of the Greeks can be found here: Dionysus has been said to have introduced wine to the region. The Romans later conquered the island, introducing lavish dishes based upon goose. The Byzantines introduced sweet and sour flavors while during the 10th and 11th centuries the Arabs brought apricots, sugar, citrus, sweet melons, rice, saffron, raisins, nutmeg, clove, pepper, and cinnamon which are all still seen in the cuisine today. The Normans and Hohenstaufen introduced a fondness for meat dishes. The Spanish introduced numerous items from the New World including cocoa, maize, turkey, tomatoes and other produce items. Tuna, sea bream, sea bass, cuttlefish, swordfish and other seafood available off the coastline is an integral part of the modern cuisine.
Sardinia
A region once fought over fiercely by many powers, the coastal cuisine of fish and seafood has only flourished after much history had passed as the inhabitants of the region wisely kept away from the coastline so highly cherished by invading traders of the area. Today rock lobster, scampi, squid, tuna, sardines and other seafood and fish figure prominently into the cuisine. Suckling pig and wild boar figure prominently into this cuisine often roasted on the spit, with hearty stews of beans, vegetables and thickened with dry bread rounding out the meal. Fresh herbs such as mint and myrtle are popular in dishes as well. Sardinian bread is made in a drier format, which keeps longer than high-moisture breads as well, examples include civraxiu, coccoi pinatus, a highly decorative bread and pistoccu made with flour and water only, meant to travel distances with herders but served at home often with tomatoes, basil, oregano, garlic and a strong cheese.
Structure of meals
Meals are structured in a cyclical order in Italy and variable contain no less than 3-4 courses. Meals are seen as a time to spend with family and friends instead of immediate sustenance, as such the regular daily meals can be a bit longer than other cultures. During holidays, many family feasts will last for many hours, if not the entire day.
Although it has to be said that nowadays the traditional Italian menu is kept for high days and special events (as weddings) whilst the everyday menu only includes the first and second course, the side dish (more and more often joined to the second course) and coffee (if not in a hurry). One notable and often surprising aspect of an Italian meal, especially if eaten in an Italian home, is that the primo, or first course, is usually the more filling dish, providing most of the meal’s carbohydrates, and will consist of either risotto or pasta (both being excellent sources). Modern Italian cuisine also includes single courses (all-in-one courses), providing carbohydrates and proteins at the same time (e.g. pasta and legumes).
1. Antipasti- hot or cold appetizers
2. Primo - “first course”, usually consists of a hot dish like pasta, risotto, gnocchi, polenta or soup. There are usually abundant vegetarian options.
3. Secondo - “second course”, the main dish, usually fish or meat. Traditionally veal, pork and chicken are the most commonly used meat, at least in the North, though beef has become more popular since World War II and wild game is very popular, particularly in Tuscany. Fishes are those fished nearby.
4. Contorno “side dish” may consist of a salad or cooked vegetables. A traditional menu features salad along with the main course.
5. Formaggio and frutta - cheese and fruits: the first dessert, usually served together.
6. Dolce - “dessert”, such as cakes and cookies)
7. Caffè - Coffee/Espresso
8. Digestivo- which is liquors/liqueurs (grappa, amaro, limoncello) sometimes referred to as ammazzacaffè “Coffee killer”
Italian Coffee
Italian style coffee (caffè), also known as espresso, is a concentrated coffee prepared by forcing boiling water through finely ground coffee beans at high pressure. It is usually served in a demitasse in relatively small quantity. Caffè macchiato is a topped with a bit of steamed milk or foam; caffè ristretto is made with less water, and is stronger. Cappuccino is mixed or topped with steamed, mostly frothy, milk. It is generally considered a morning beverage. Caffelatte is generally equal parts espresso and steamed milk, similar to café au lait, and is typically served in a large cup. Latte macchiato (spotted milk) is a glass of warm milk with a bit of coffee.
Contrary to popular misconception, espresso is not made from special “espresso” beans. Rather, it is made from the same coffee beans as any other style of coffee. However, beans prepared for espresso are usually roasted dark, and are often a blend of coffees of various origins.
Wine
Italian cuisine cannot be separated from Italian wine. Most Italian wines of great renown are produced in three main Italian regions: Piedmont (Barolo), Venetia (Amarone, Pinot Grigio, etc.) and Tuscany (Chianti, Brunello). Other great wine producing regions such as Puglie (Primitivo) and Sicily also produce some respected wines.
Holiday Cuisine
Italians celebrate each holiday with a different cuisine, each in turn having a specific meaning.
At Christmas Italians often serve tortellini as a first course. The typical cakes of the Christmas season are panettone and pandoro, with people often being partial to one but not the other.
On Christmas Eve a symbolic fast is observed (the so-called “cena di magro”, the “light dinner”) excluding meat but including many courses which are not by any means light, based mainly on fish and other seafood, but also on snails, even frogs, which curiously enough are not considered “meat”.
In Sicily, as well as in many Italian American communities and other Italian communities worldwide, on March 19, La Festa di San Giuseppe (St. Joseph’s Day), thanks are given to St. Joseph for preventing a famine in Sicily during the Middle Ages. The fava bean was the crop which saved the population from starvation, and is a traditional part of St. Joseph’s Day altars and traditions. Other customs celebrating this festival include wearing red clothing, eating Sicilian pastries known as zeppole and giving food to the needy.
On Easter Sunday, lamb-based dishes are commonly served throughout both northern and southern Italy. Typical at Easter Sunday in Umbria and Tuscany is also a breakfast with Salami, boiled eggs, wine and Easter Cakes and pizzas.
The Mediterranean diet
The cooking of coastal southern Italians was one of the inspirations of the so-called Mediterranean diet, which is incorrectly believed to be characteristic of Italian cuisine in general. An Italian writer remarks sarcastically:
Around 1975, under the impulse of one of those new nutritional directives by which good cooking is too often influenced, the Americans discovered the so-called Mediterranean diet…. The name… even pleased Italian government officials, who [renamed it] Mediterranean cuisine. They kept the American selection, which excluded ingredients which are historically indispensable for us, such as pork meat, pork fat, butter, and, in the quantities allowed by family budgets, the noble meats, veal and beef. It wasn’t accepted that our true eating habits, extending over the greatest part of our national territory, was middle European, and not the diet of coastal peoples.
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